Review: Chinatown

Tell me: What’s this place all about? 
The Canadian Pacific Railway was one of the largest and most consequential undertakings in the country’s history, and thousands of Chinese laborers were brought to Canada to perform the grueling work of building a transcontinental railroad. When it was finally completed in Vancouver in 1885, many workers settled in a rough-and-tumble area at the edge of the city—one that would become known as Chinatown. The newcomers experienced relentless racism, economic hardship and inequality—including the prohibitive Chinese Head Tax, which all but barred Chinese immigrants from coming to Canada. But despite the oppression they endured, they had an enormous impact on every facet of Vancouver life—one that remains tightly woven into the fabric of the region to this day. It’s a legacy that’s still very much alive in Vancouver’s Chinatown, one of the city’s oldest and most culturally diverse neighborhoods—and an area where visitors of all stripes, from hipsters to history buffs, can experience old and new. Good places to start are the new Chinatown Storytelling Centre, which is dedicated to preserving and sharing the history of Chinese Canadians, as well as the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, an urban garden modeled after the Ming Dynasty-era scholar’s gardens in Suzhou, China that’s regularly named among the best city gardens on the planet. From there, it’s worth wandering through the many dry goods and housewares shops, or sampling foods from around the globe. For a taste of authentic Chinese fare, visitors should check out Chinatown BBQ, which offers traditional barbecued meats and other favorite dishes, or Jade Dynasty, known for its classic Dim Sum. With its smart design, great food and inventive cocktails, Bao Bei is a Chinatown favorite, as are award-winning Cambodian restaurant Phnom Penh and Vietnamese destination DD MAU. Those with a sweet tooth can check out the area’s many bakeries, including Mello which offers brioche donuts, house-blend coffee and other sweet treats. Tea and coffee lovers can also dip into The Chinese Tea Shop, Treasure Green Tea—which sells more than 200 fine teas — and the popular Propaganda Coffee. Fans of quirky historical sites should check out the iconic Sam Kee Building at 8 Pender Street, which, at just 4-feet-10-inches deep, was recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records as the Narrowest Building in the World. And art lovers shouldn’t miss the Rennie Museum. (Note that visits are by appointment only.)

What’s it like being there? 
Chinatown is on the edge of downtown Vancouver, so it’s a bustling neighborhood with cars moving along busy streets and shoppers darting in and out of food and houseware shops packed tightly into century-old heritage buildings. But there are plenty of places for calm respite, too, including the Chinatown Storytelling Centre, Dr. Sun Yat-Sen garden, the Rennie Museum, and the neighborhood’s many restaurants, tea shops and coffee houses.

Is there a guide involved? 
There are many guided tours available, among them Judy Lam Maxwell’s enlightening and entertaining Historical Chinatown Tours, which take participants into both historic and modern businesses, and raise money for the restoration of the area’s heritage buildings. (She also leads classes on how to make dumplings.) There are also foodie tours including Robert Sung’s popular A Wok Around Chinatown — which winds through specialty shops featuring barbequed meats, live seafood, pastries, teas, herbal remedies, cookware and more — and the Vancouver Dim Sum Chinatown Tour, where visitors can enjoy tastes of Har-Gow (steamed shrimp dumplings), Char Sui (steam buns stuffed with barbecued pork or veggies), Xiao Long Bao (steamed dumplings with pork and broth filling), and sweet egg tarts. And definitely make time for a tour of Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, where you can discover the history and design behind the unforgettable Ming Dynasty-style garden.

Who comes here? 
The neighborhood draws every type, from locals who have been shopping there for generations to upscale foodies checking out the latest culinary hotspots, and from history buffs to authentic culture seekers. The neighborhood is adjacent to Vancouver’s Downtown Eastside, so you’ll likely also cross paths with panhandlers and drug users too. (To avoid the roughest sections, stay off East Hastings Street and stick with Keefer and Pender Streets, and Expo Boulevard, instead.)

Does it meet expectations? 
It absolutely lives up to the hype, and makes you want to learn more—especially if you soak in the serenity of the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden, discover the neighborhood’s history at the Chinatown Storytelling Centre, check out thought-provoking art at the Rennie Museum, and treat yourself to a world of food and drink. If you’re ever in town during Chinese New Year, it’s also well worth catching the parade.

So then what, or who, do you think it’s best for? 
Chinatown is ideal for history buffs, culture seekers, people watchers, food lovers and those seeking an authentic experience free of chain stores and tourist traps. Because of its central location and cheaper rents, it has also evolved into a hipster hotspot, so you can also check out what the cool kids are up to. But while the buildings have skyrocketed in value, it’s still a neighborhood afflicted with poverty, so if you’re uncomfortable crossing paths with panhandlers and drug users, you might want to check out the many Chinese shops and restaurants in Richmond instead.