This beautiful city looks extra gorgeous when covered in a fresh blanket of snow.
Vancouver, British Columbia, is a popular tourist destination, but the vibe is pretty chill during ... [+]
Seeing the city in whole new light
I’ve been to Vancouver dozens of times, but I must confess it’s usually during summer months. Still, there’s something extra special about seeing it under a fresh blanket of snow.
One of the many reasons I love Vancouver is the diverse culinary landscape serving just about every type of global cuisine you can imagine. But what about something that’s so local it’s easy to overlook?
On a recent trip, I took a deep dive into the indigenous culture that’s thriving in a few key ways. In fact, the official point of contact for all things tourism admirably puts it in historic context: Destination Vancouver gratefully acknowledges that we live and work on the traditional, unceded territories of the xʷməθkʷəy̓əm (Musqueam), Skwxwú7mesh (Squamish), and səlilwətaɬ (Tsleil-Waututh).
The journey started at the Skwachays Lodge, a truly original property that’s home to a gallery and an artist-in-residence program open to indigenous creatives. Each of the 18 rooms showcase the work of various artists. I felt right at home in the King Salmon suite with its stunning piece on the wall above the comfy bed.
Rooms at the Skwachays Lodge in Vancouver B.C. feature original artwork from indigenous creatives ... [+]
Enlightening culinary conversations
The Lodge — located steps from Vancouver’s Chinatown — has a culture liaison on staff. How cool is that? It was such a pleasure to talk with Caroline Phelps about culinary traditions of the people who’ve lived in the region for thousands of years.
When it comes to the now-trendy practice of foraging, berries, roots and seafood top the most valuable players list and that practice goes back centuries for native Canadians. Phelps is currently working with chef Jade Berg from Wild Isle Cooking on an event that will bring artists and cooks together for a unique collaboration. “The exhibit will highlight the efforts to decolonize diets,” she said, similar to the groundbreaking work being done by The Sioux Chef.
For a tasty and thought-provoking example of reimagined food products, be sure and pick up a jar of Tradish Plant Medicine Jam for sale in the lodge’s gallery.
Talaysay Tours in Vancouver, B.C., offers an extensive lineup of eco-driven walks, including a ... [+]
Talking Trees Tour in Stanley Park
Interest in all things indigenous piqued, I signed up for an intriguing urban hike through the city’s vast version of Central Park. This expansive green space served as the winter home for many First Nations people before European settlers arrived.
On a chilly morning, our small group walked deep into the forest and learned about the importance of different species of trees in provided shelter, material for long-burning fires and medicine. We were invited to pick a few Hemlock needles and chew on them. “They’re good for digestion and for boosting immunity,” explained Seraphine Lewis, our Talaysay Tours guide. Candace and Larry Campo founded the company in 2002.
We learned branches from elm trees were used to play a rite-of-passage game that sounds very much like lacrosse. Yes, and, in fact, Lewis’s grandfather had played on a national championship winning lacrosse team when he was a young man. Very cool!
By the end of the 90-minute walk in the park, I had learned so much. But, whoa, my hands and feet were freezing. Campo gave the group a reality check when she said her nomadic ancestors used to come to this very spot during winter months because it was much warmer than the mountains.
Inez Cook, the owner of Salmon N Bannock in Vancouver, B.C., has created a cozy restaurant that ... [+]
Warming up with a wonderful dinner
Salmon n’ Bannock was rocking on a recent weeknight, the dining room buzzing with guests drawn in by the distinctive creations such as succulent sablefish smoked with white buffalo sage and served with Haudenosaunee corn polenta and roasted beets.
I was mighty impressed with the deeply flavored, fork-tender bison short ribs that were prepared pot roast-style. Perfect for a chilly winter meal.
The accompanying bannock drizzled with local honey was extra special. Bannock is also known as fry bread, a pastry that’s fairly neutral until paired with something sweet or savory. At Salmon n’ Bannock, the signature item is more like a biscuit, though it’s more stout than fluffy. Bonus points for the menu’s description of that staple as being about the same size as a hockey point. Score!
Ask the accommodating servers for wine pairing advice. There’s some gems on the list including a Bordeaux-style blend called Mer'r'iym-Meritage from Nk’ Mip Cellars, Canada’s first indigenous-owned winery.
Dessert? How about a berry trifle that swaps out the standard sponge cake for chunks of those house-made bannock? Yes, please. And thank you for a memorable meal on this unforgettable visit.
