It’s easy to escape in Vancouver and Victoria
Adrenaline surged with sea mist cooling my face as the 30-foot hull inflatable boat raced across stunning Howe Sound during a glorious sun-splashed afternoon off of Horseshoe Bay.
It was a terrific escape on an idyllic day just a half-hour from downtown Vancouver exploring fjords, which were designated as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 2021.
Our engaging guide, Heinrich, from Sewell’s Marina Sea Safari detailed the terrain, the history and marine life. It’s hard to believe that hippies resided on the cheap a half century ago where $15 million pleasure palaces reside on the coast of Howe Sound. The natural beauty, which includes the little island, known as Pam Rocks, which is inhabited by seals and occasional dolphin sightings, is staggering. That’s especially so when the sun shines, which is common from April through October.
Welcome to the coast of Vancouver, which is stunning.
During a prior trip to Vancouver, I only experienced downtown during wet, winter days, but there is so much to enjoy on the fringes of the bustling city with the most futuristic looking buildings in North America. No wonder so many sci-fi films are shot in Vancouver.
After the stirring two-hour tour of the majestic coastal mountains, the caves of Bowen Island and a few thrilling donuts provided by our amusing guide, it was off for more outdoor adventure on the edge of Vancouver.
We, my 14-year old daughter Jane and I, traveled from West to North Vancouver for the Capilano Suspension Bridge Park, which is a walk through a rainforest canopy with a trek above a canyon. It’s reminiscent of zip line adventures I’ve experienced that were daunting for the faint of heart and those with a fear of heights.
It’s worth the effort when you’re on the bridge while looking up at the mountain peaks and down at the rushing river. And the experience is capped by strolling the tranquil paths prior to navigating the striking cliff walk.
For a deeper exploration of the rainforest, there’s the lush UBC Botanical Garden. The TreeWalk is the centerpiece of the garden. Navigate the suspended walkways about 65 feet above the forest floor. The canopy walkway hangs from massive Douglas firs, cedars and grand firs, many of which are over 100 years old. The walkway gives visitors a bird’s-eye view of Vancouver’s unique coastal temperate rainforest. The flora and fauna are undisturbed below. There are a plethora of gardens and plants throughout the garden.
For a terrific view of the Vancouver skyline while cooling down and raising your heart rate, there’s kayaking off of scenic Jericho Beach. Travel out toward the ships and just relax while staring at the skyline. A sunset paddle is best.
Victoria is a quick seaplane ride or ferry ride away, and you can relish a more mellow experience.
The kayak run along Cowichan Bay was more sedate than the Vancouver experience. It’s a great place to go birding. While paddling along the estuary, we slowed to admire the Trumpeter Swans and Mew gulls.
Rainforest enthusiasts will enjoy a hike to Sandcut Beach. It’s an easy 10-minute hike through mossy rainforests that concludes on a serene pebbled beach.
Walk along the sandstone creek that leads to a misty waterfall. When the tide is low, there are numerous sandstone tidal pools with diverse marine life. Perhaps you’ll find a starfish clinging to a rock just knee deep out in the water.
Gulf Islands National Park Reserve is the destination for wildlife. We encountered eagles, otters and seals in their natural habitat in this uncommon eco-system.
A great place to escape and just zen out is Lone Tree Hill Regional Park. We hiked to the 1,200 foot summit and witnessed views of the Malahat, the Highlands and the Olympic Mountains.
Considerable energy is required to engage in the plethora of physical activities in Vancouver and Victoria. Fortunately, both cities offer an array of culinary delights.
I’ve never experienced anything like dim sum in Richmond, Vancouver’s culinary rich neighbor. There are a number of sensational Chinese restaurants there. We visited five establishments and were floored by Shanghai River Restaurant. The Shanghai dumplings with minced pork are delicious. The goose liver with sticky rice and the steamed crab are excellent.
Anyone with a junk food jones must sample the poutine from Fritz European Fry House. It’s the best poutine, with apologies to Montreal, I’ve ever had. The tangy gravy and the massive cheese curds top the sturdy french fries, which are just soggy enough after being doused. There are a number of toppings, such as smoked meat and bacon, that can be added, but why mess with perfection?
From street food to top tier cuisine takes us to Victoria’s Courtney Room. The beef tenderloin is sublime. The B.C. Prawn bisque and the fresh shucked oysters are a great way to kick off the meal.
The venerable Hawksworth is a Vancouver institution for good reason. The only issue is deciding on an entree. You can’t go wrong with the sun gold lamb chop with falafel, zucchini blossom, ricotta and oregano jus. But if you’re in the mood for fish, there’s the northern pacific halibut with the clever combination of bell pepper, chorizo, sweet corn and chanterelle. The must have appetizer is wagyu tartare with green peppercorn dressing.
Regarding the former, the place to stay in Victoria is the elegant Magnolia Hotel and Spa, which houses the Courtney Room. The Magnolia, which won the Conde Nast Reader’s Choice Award in 2022 and Travel and Leisure’s Top 500 award, is comfortable and centrally located. It’s just blocks from the marina and just a few feet from the Victoria Bug Zoo, which is a wonderful place for entomologists and those who are just fascinated by little, furry, crawly things.
The Strathcona Hotel and the Quality Inn Downtown offer decent accommodations at a reasonable price.
The St. Regis Hotel is a Vancouver gem. If you’re looking for a centrally located hotel with charm that’s moderately priced, it’s the St. Regis. The bonus is that guests receive passes to the Steve Nash Fitness club. Nash, an eight-time NBA All Star and two-time MVP, is a British Columbia native. The St. Regis Bar & Grille is a fun pub with great local drafts.
The Pan Pacific Vancouver and the Coast Coal Harbour Vancouver are also solid options.
The jaw-dropping beauty, the culinary delights and much bang for the buck, (one Canadian dollar is worth 0.74 American dollars) make Vancouver and Victoria appealing destinations.